Overview of South America updated 26/01/2011
These are our views based on our experience in 2010. We traveled by car staying in campgrounds and hostels.
Argentina Bolivia Brazil Paraguay Peru Uruguay South American Menu Home
Common Areas
NB: Importation of vehicle into Buenos Aires, Argentina
NB: Exportation of vehicle from Lima, Peru
Vehicle
The best is to have a vehicle where you can sleep inside. This allows versatility in where you can stop for the night plus caters for wet and cold conditions. Tyres should be thick. 16" can be much thicker than 15", Clearance should be at least 15cm with an entry / exit angle of more than 15 degrees.
Spares and Maintenance There are dealers for most cars but they do not necessarily have the parts you want. Brazil is a good place to stock up. Apparently Chile is also good.
Servicing The same as in the rest of the world. Mechanics are everywhere. Dealers are expensive.
Fuel Petrol and diesel are usually available except in the more remote areas. It is best to have enough for about 1,000 kilometres when travelling in out-of-the-way places..
Insurance We were not asked for our insurance nor told to buy any. Except on the border into Argentina at Fray Bentos. None was available at the border.
Customs Clearance Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay have their own forms. Official ownership (registration) papers are always required. It is a matter of ensuring you get the official forms on entry and have them stamped out on exit. A carnet is required for Peru.
A carnet is issued by the Automobile Association in your home country. It is a guarantee that you will either not sell the vehicle or will pay the import duty if you do sell. For this reason a deposit is required by the AA. But do check with other countries. You do not have to purchase a carnet from the country where the car is registered.
Camping / Hotels
Hostels in Argentina, Brazil, Peru and Uruguay usually have a kitchen with an assortment of pots, utensils, crockery and cutlery. Breakfast is included in the price of hostels. Argentina provides croissant, toast, jam and coffee or tea. Bolivia, Paraguay and Peru provide watered down coffee, tea sometimes, bread and jam. Brazil is great - a variety of fruit, bread, bread rolls, jams and jellies, sometimes muesli, coffee, tea and chocolate. Uruguay has fresh bread, tea, coffee, butter, jam and fruit.
To find hostels look up www.hostelbokers.com or www.hostelworld.com
Camping can be cold showers to wonderful facilities including wifi. There are very few camp grounds in Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru and Uruguay. Campsites near major cities are usually a long way out, more than 30k.
Argentina has campsites in most municipalities. Properties are fenced making wild camping more difficult. We always found a place though. Then for those who can sleep in the car there are always service stations and parking lots for big supermarkets.
Bolivia has very few camp sites. Wild camping is easier though not in the mountains where there are few flat spots screened from the road.
Brazil has campsites at tourist attractions and along the coast. To find them look up www.macamp.com.br. This site also lists CCB sites (Camping Club do Brazil).
Paraguay has at least one good campsite north of Encanacion (south west border with Argentina)
Peru seems to have campsites along the coast.
Uruguay has many campsites along the coast and near cities except for Montevideo
free GPS maps
Go to http://forum.gsmhosting.com/vbb/archive/t-632595-p-7.html. Mike2111 has listed maps from all over the world. Amazing point of departure.
My shortened list:
Argentina - Proyecto Mapear at www.proyectomapear.com.ar/eng_tutorial/index.htm. or
Brazil - Part1 www.filefactory.com/file/aggg6f8/n/CNBr2010_MapSource_part1_rar
Part2 www.filefactory.com/file/aggg1dg/n/CNBr2010_MapSource_part2_rar
Chile - http://torrents.thepiratebay.org/3874998/Garmin_MapSource_Chile_Streets_2007.3874998.TPB
Peru - www.perut.org/ http://perut.gallarday.net/Perut_250.zip
Peru and down the Andes - www.viajeros.freeservers.com
Venezuela - www.gpsyv.net/venrut.html or www.gpsyv.net/download.php?download=6 or www.tecnogente.info/venrut/Venrut4.8.exe
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls. Small shops may close for 2 or more hours between mid-day and 4:00pm. It is best to shop outside these hours. Refer to the section for each country to check import restrictions. Customs can be ruthless.
Bolivia and Peru have permanent markets which sell anything, including delicious fruit juices, fruit salads and cheap meals. Chicken restaurants are normally good value. Bolivia also has cheap lunchtime only restaurants providing 3 course meals. Brazil has 'per kilo restaurants, but watch the price as they are not always cheap.
Cooking Gas
We have only tried to find this in Argentina. The starting point is a GNC garage. They pointed us in the right direction. Firstly a small place near Punta Rasa (Punta Norte). Parana has at least 2 possibilities. TaxiGas has adaptors for sale but did not put in as much gas as he charged for. We now have a universal adaptor, all you need is a hose from the gas storage container. NB waypoints in decimal degrees.
TaxiGas Avda Ramirez, cnr Don Bosco, Parana, Argentina S 31.43582 W 60.30570
Forrajeria El Domino Avda Gdor Enrique F Mihura, off Avda Almafuerta, Parana, Argentina S 31.45335 W 60.29094
Health
Water is potable. We drank the local water without ill effects.
Do mosquitoes like you? If so there are plenty of other insects which will like you too. Whenever you are less than 2000m use lots of repellent and continually re-apply. The brand OFF is quite good. Do not forget to put it on your face, neck, all joints including fingers and toes, palms, lots around the ankles and on the soles of your feet. Clothing helps but who wants to be completely covered? Think I'm exaggerating? OK, just be prepared. NB: The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu is mostly under 2000m.
My chronic medication is available without prescription in Argentina, Peru and Bolivia, if they have it in stock. In Brazil I had to get a special prescription from a doctor. I went to Out-Patients at a public hospital. Uruguay also required a doctor's prescription so I did not bother.
Other
Money International ATMs are in most places. Have cash if you go to remote places or islands
Argentina | Bolivia | Brazil | Uruguay | Paraguay | ||||
Averages | ||||||||
Cost of diesel per litre | 0.95 | 0.62 | 1.14 | 1.36 | 1.00 | |||
Camping per night 2 people | 10.22 | 4.27 | 16.58 | 7.56 | 14.63 | |||
Hotels per night 2 people | 31.33 | 14.04 | 36.11 | 20.00 | 29.26 | |||
Average spend per day 2 people | 80.00 | 45.51 | *57.12 | 47.75 |
49.69 |
|||
Total | ||||||||
Kilometers traveled | 11,916 | 5,012 | 10,463 | 1,398 | 1,583 | |||
Days in country | 111 | 45 | 89 | 20 | 20 | |||
NB: Currency is USD
NB: Bolivia may have dramatically increased the diesel price by the time you read this. They tried in December 2010
* This is a very tight budget. Our income was seriously reduced during this period.
People
People everywhere are friendly and helpful.
Internet
Hostels and some of the hotels have wifi. Internet Cafes and places with wifi are everywhere.
GPS
A GPS is handy but not necessary.
Domestic animals are treated very well. Dogs, cats and horses expect to be patted and treated kindly. A huge change from Asia.
Road conditions
So far we have only travelled in the north of Argentina. The roads, including gravel, are not too bad. In Buenos Aires Province they are generally good. Elsewhere they can have bad patches.
It is difficult to decide if you should give way to the right or left, especially when one way streets cross each other. The most assertive driver wins and everyone behind has the benefit. Towns all have a system of one way streets. Each street goes in the opposite direction to the previous street. The roads are usually laid out in squares. It is often not permitted to cross in front of oncoming traffic e.g. a left hand turn from a 2 way street, unless there is a left hand turn arrow. In this case the lights will give a specific time to turn left. In other cases you need to go right at the street after, right and right to get to the traffic lights and go straight across
Do not park on the left hand side of a street, especially in large towns, unless you are absolutely sure it is allowed.
Police
Police checks are everywhere. Expect to go through one when entering and leaving a province and large towns. They usually only ask to look at the drivers license but sometimes passports and car papers. A photocopy of a passport plus entry stamp is accepted sometimes. Entre Rios has a reputation for corrupt police. We had no problems. They did however object to the towbar, said it was dangerous. The most notorious is on the R14 just south of Corrientes Province.
Borders and food
Agricultural control is in place is some areas. No fresh produce is allowed into Patagonia. We had to give up oranges and green peppers within kilometres of buying them in Bahia Blanca.
When entering Argentina from Brazil at Iguazu we were also checked for plant and animal produce.
Camping
Argentina has campsites in most municipalities. Properties are fenced making wild camping more difficult. We always found a place though. Then for those who can sleep in the car there are always service stations and parking lots for big supermarkets.
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls. Small shops may close for 2 or more hours between mid-day and 4:00pm.
Free GPS Maps
Proyecto Mapear at www.proyectomapear.com.ar/eng_tutorial/index.htm. or
Peru and down the Andes - www.viajeros.freeservers.com
Road conditions
We travelled in the south, west and the alto-plano.
The kindest thing to say about most of them is that they are under construction. In some areas construction is active with some good roads with bad patches. Away from major routes only basic construction has taken place and maintenance is limited. For this read bad dirt or worse, potholed tar. There are some good roads between major cities.
Toll roads are numerous and inexpensive. Sometimes you have to have a police stamp on the toll ticket as well. Occasionally you buy a ticket for the full journey and merely show this at the next toll booth
Police
Police checks are everywhere. We did not have any problems and were rarely stopped.
Borders and food
No problems
Camping
Bolivia has very few camp sites. Wild camping is easier though not in the mountains where there are few flat spots screened from the road.
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls and permanent markets. Permanent markets sell anything including delicious fruit juices, fruit salads and cheap meals. Chicken restaurants are normally good value. Cheap lunchtime only restaurants provide 3 course meals.
Road conditions
Wonderful. We rarely travelled on dirt or bad roads.
BUT the Brazilians LOVE speed humps. They are every where especially in and near towns. A lone house can have 1 or more speed humps to 'protect' the inhabitants. Some we could see no logical reason for. They vary from small to vicious - short, sharp and high. You are warned about some but not all. They can be difficult to spot.
Be careful when turning left. Often you have to move over to the right and wait for the road to clear before turning left, or there is a slipway on the right. If a car has the left hand blinker on do not overtake on the right until you are sure the driver will not do so.
All major roads are toll roads. These can be expensive. We paid USD 85.52 in total. It cost USD 44.40 to go from Rio de Janeiro to Curitaba.
Police
Police checks? What police checks?
Borders and food
No problems
Camping
Brazil has campsites at tourist attractions and along the coast. To find them look up www.macamp.com.br. This site also lists CCB sites (Camping Club do Brazil).
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls. Small shops may close for 2 or more hours between mid-day and 4:00pm. There are 'per kilo restaurants, but watch the price as they are not always cheap.
Free GPS maps
Part1 www.filefactory.com/file/aggg6f8/n/CNBr2010_MapSource_part1_rar
Part2 www.filefactory.com/file/aggg1dg/n/CNBr2010_MapSource_part2_rar
The only reason to go to Paraguay is to visit friends and family, there is little else of major interest.
Road Conditions
We only followed main roads which were good.
Police
Plenty of police checks. They seem to look for something wrong so they can fine you. The only time we really got caught it was for overtaking on a double yellow line - we were in the wrong.
Borders
Check how many days the car has been given. We were given 10 days at Encarnacion without realising it. This caused problems when we left through the Chaco. If you go this route make sure you have your passports stamped about 40k from the border.
Borders and food
No problem.
Duty Free
Cuidad del Este is supposed to be cheap. Maybe it is compared to Brazil. We bought a computer for about the same price as in South Africa, which is not cheap when compared to China or the USA.
Camping
Paraguay has at least one good campsite north of Encanacion (south west border with Argentina)
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls. Small shops may close for 2 or more hours between mid-day and 4:00pm.
Road Conditions
Good. There is a lot of effort to clear fallen rocks from the edges of the road. Very few speed humps and all with warnings.
Tolls on main roads. Inexpensive.
Police
Few police checks, usually a reminder to wear our seatbelts.
Borders
No problems. A carnet is required for the car
Borders and food
No problems.
Camping
Peru seems to have campsites along the coast.
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls and permanent markets. Permanent markets sell anything including delicious fruit juices, fruit salads and cheap meals. Chicken restaurants are normally good value.
Free GPS maps
www.perut.org/ http://perut.gallarday.net/Perut_250.zip
Peru and down the Andes - www.viajeros.freeservers.com
Tourist Sights
These are expensive. Machu Picchu cost USD 250 for the train to/from Santa Teresa, bus to/from Aguas Caliente and entrance fee for two people. The flight over Nazca cost USD100 per person.
Road Conditions
Good except on minor roads. In the north the roads are very well repaired. You hardly notice it.
Tolls on the main coast road.
Route 10 down the east coast stops just after Paloma and starts again further down, no matter what the tourist map says.
Police
No police checks
Borders
You can take a car from Montevideo to Colonia del Sacramento to Buenos Aires. It is quite expensive. Refer to the photo for prices as at October 2010.
Borders and food
We had our cheese, meat products, fruit and vegetables confiscated at Salto. They were thorough.
Duty Free
Chuy is a duty free town. Fill up on diesel here. It is cheaper than in Brazil and Uruguay. Alchohol and Brazilian products are also cheap
Camping
Uruguay has many campsites along the coast and near cities except for Montevideo
Food
Large and small supermarkets are everywhere along with street stalls. Small shops may close for 2 or more hours between mid-day and 4:00pm. Chicken restaurants are normally good value.
Importation of vehicle to Buenos Aires, Argentina
You can use an agent or do it yourself at one third of the cost. The information below is based on doing it yourself.
1. Contact your Shipping Company 1 or 2 days before the ship arrives.
We used MSC (Mediterranean Shipping Company). Address: Chile 801, Buenos Aires; Telephone: (+54 11) 5300 7356; web: www.mscargentina.com
Each company has their own set of charges, quoted in USD and paid in ARS. We paid USD 137.85. Other companies have charged USD 300
Each company has their own documentation requirements. We required the Bill of Lading, Carnet, passport and a signed notarized Warranty (saying we would return or pay for the container).
After paying the charges you will be given a Delivery Order and a receipt.
2. Go to EMBA (customs) before or just after the ship arrives.
This is a small office in the arrivals terminal of the port, within walking distance of Retiro on train line C.
Address: corner of Avenida de los Inmigration and Avenida Rámon Castillo. Tel: 4317 0671
You will need
-Bill of Lading
-Delivery Order (from the shipping company)
-Carnet de Passage (it will not be stamped)
-Passport
They also look at the
-Car registration
-International driver's License
-list of contents of the container. We had this but did not show it. In hindsight it would have been a good idea to do so there.
EMBA make copies and add documents
Speaking Spanish is helpful but not mandatory. The staff are very laid back and don't like people standing around in their office.
There is a form to be completed in duplicate. Do so later, preferably with the help of a Spanish speaking person.
3. Once the ship has been unloaded go to the Terminales Rio de la Plata
Allow 1 or 2 days for the dock workers to unload the ship. Allow a full day to go through the procedures to get your car.
A. Preferably the day before you want to collect your car
We went to Mr Fernando, 1st floor (upstairs) of the TRP building at the end of Avenida de los Inmigration just outside the gates of the Terminales Rio de la Plata. (Tel: 4319 9500). We were then directed to the Oficina de Cordinacion corner Ave Commodoro Py and Av Antartida Argentina (much closer to the train station). There is a free shuttle service between the 2 buildings. Most of the paperwork is done here.
Hand over the
EMBA papers,
a signed copy of the contents of the container with ship, shipping order number, container number
You will be told to pay most of the money into the HSBC Bank in Florida St near Peru train station Line A or Catedral Line C. This will take an hour by public transport.
The tellers only take Pesos.
B. Return to the Oficina de Cordinacion early i.e. at 10:00
Hand over all the papers including proof of deposit.
Finalise payment and receive authorisation to take the vehicle
C. Return to Snr Fernando at TRP on Avenida de los Inmigration.
He will escort you inside the gates and put you on the free internal shuttle bus for Terminal 3 and Snr Damian.
Snr Damian will open the container and assist in unloading
You will then follow his car to the exit gate and park.
D. Return to Snr Fernando
Importation will be finalised and you will receive a 'Declaracion Jurada Admision Temporaria Veiculos de Touristas' valid for 8 months
The carnet although scrutinised at various stages is not used.
E. Now you are free to go
We had difficulty finding an agent. We tried several internet sites promising 3 or more quotes and received one reply after we had started the process with MSC.
We used MSC (Mediterranean Shipping Company) because I found their number in the Lima telephone book. The agency was not very efficient and the customs agent they used was inexperienced. Read the diary!
MSC Av. Alvarez Calderon 185, Piso 5 San Isidro Tel: 221 7561 Contact: Carolina Sanchez e-mail: vsanchez@mscperu.net |
MSC (aka Full Boxes S.A.C) Av Nestor Gambeta 358 Callao Tel: (51-1) 613 7200 Contact: Rafael Koechlin, Logistics Manager e-mail: rkoechlin@mscperu.net |
Notario German Nunez Palomino, Iquique 246, Calleo This is near the container yard just off Av La Marina |
Procedure (this is the efficient version not what actually happened with us)
0. Obtain a flight reservation to exit the country. This can be obtained from any Travel Agent for a small fee. You do not have to actually pay for the flight or even pretend you will catch the plane.
1. Contact the Agent
a. Obtain the cost of their services. You may have to actually request an invoice.
b. Obtain the following documents
2 x Letter authorizing an agent to deal with customs for the CAR
2 x Letter authorizing an agent to deal with customs for the PERSONAL CONTENTS of the car
1 x ownership papers
2 x passport - photo page
2 x passport - Peru entry stamp page
2 x list of contents plus value in USD
2. Pay the agency fee into the MSC bank account.
There is a bank in a nearby shopping mall - Minsk on Av Argentina
Cash only, preferably USD but the bank will change other currencies.
Keep the deposit slip
3. Have the above documents (point 1b) notarized.
You will need your passport and will have a fingerprint taken.
4. Return to the agents
Hand over
The notarized documents
The deposit slip
Your passport
The original ownership papers
The carnet
A flight reservation to exit the country
Drive into the yard and put your car into the container to await customs inspection.
Obtain the day and time when customs will perform the inspection.
You can take a taxi to Av La Marina and catch a bus back to your hotel.
5. Be present at the customs inspection
You will have to have the contents and the car weighed separately.
Watch the car being lashed and finally locked.
Retrieve your passport.
6. Pay for the actual shipping.
We obtained the detail of the items charged for and the bank account number via e-mail.
7. Receive documents
These (except for the passport) can only be released once customs has seen the container loaded onto the ship!
The passport was released once the container was finally locked.
We arranged to have the ownership papers and carnet delivered to our hotel.
The Bill of Lading was sent by e-mail.
Costs
Soles | USD | exchange | ||
Full Boxes - Logistic Services | 2.83 | |||
Derecho de Embarque | 547.40 | 193.43 | ||
Traccion | 230.86 | 81.58 | ||
Agencia Maritima | 767.55 | 271.22 | ||
Posicionamiento Contanedor | 190.40 | 67.28 | ||
Uso de rampa | 249.90 | 88.30 | ||
Trincado de auto | 466.48 | 164.83 | ||
Agenciamiento de Aduana | 533.12 | 188.38 | ||
Movilizacion aforo Fisico | 124.95 | 44.15 | ||
Logistic Fee | 191.14 | 67.54 | ||
Gastos Administrativos | 54.00 | 19.08 | ||
3,355.80 | 1,185.80 | |||
MSC - Shipping costs | ||||
o/f | 1400 | |||
buc | 748 | |||
pcs | 235 | |||
csf | 8 | |||
2391 | ||||
3,581.00 | ||||
Notary | 68.00 | |||
Flight reservation |
20.00 |